Small Talk Issue 30

With Mike Renaut

Earlier this week I painted a car body outside in the freezing cold, I didn’t wait for it to gas out and sprayed primer, colour and lacquer on within 30 minutes. It turned out perfectly smooth and shiny and I still have no bloody idea why…

Project Falcon

Last month I introduced our new project car: a resin 1960 Ford Falcon. Naturally, I’ve now discovered this body is no longer available. I bought it many years ago from Ed at Drag City Casting – he’s on Facebook offering a great variety of top-quality resin parts – but Ed’s confirmed the Falcon is no longer in stock. Never mind, this build will be appropriate to virtually any resin model you might have.

The Falcon body comes with a stock interior tub, but nothing else. Fortunately, AMT’s 1961 Ford Ranchero kit can provide front and rear bumpers, windscreen, dashboard and tailights. I couldn’t find suitable rear glass so I’ll probably have to make something up from clear plastic sheet – we’ll deal with that later.

First job with any resin body is cut off any webbing across the windows or wheelarches where resin has overflowed the mould. Use a razor saw or sharp knife but go carefully – resin is super soft compared with plastic. I then always thin out the inside of the wheelarches of whatever I’m building; it looks more realistic and gets the wheels further out to the edges of the body. Sanding resin produces nasty, very harmful dust, so work outside and wear a mask. It will take a while by hand or a few seconds with a Dremel on the slowest setting, although be very careful since that’s like a knife through hot butter.

Then give all the resin parts a thorough clean in warm soapy water using an old toothbrush to get rid of any unseen chemicals and mould release agents that might later mess up your shiny paint. If it’s at all warped, now’s the time to straighten it by clamping the body with rubber bands to something strong and flat – such as a block of wood – and immersing it in hot water. Very hot water will melt the resin so if the water’s too hot for your hand then it’s way too hot for resin.

I’m interested to hear your suggestions for the Falcon’s build style so please drop me an email to the address at the top of the page. Next month we’ll see what happens when I ignore my own advice…

Reader’s Models

Dave Neave, from Bradford, kindly sent photos of some recent builds. His cleanly built MPC Jawbreaker dragster is virtually box stock and painted Rover Tara Green. The 1955 Chevy ‘Nomad’ is entirely AMT based, using the kit’s pickup conversion with the kustom front and headlights from the ’57 Chevy and rear rollpan/grille insert off the 1956 Fairlane. The wheels came from the ’65 Lincoln Continental. Dave scratchbuilt the side trim and added a full kustom tuck’n’roll interior.